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22
22
http://www.archive.org/download/vagabonding_down_andes_1711_librivox/vagabondingandes_06_franck_64kb.mp3
3,234.3
3,253.44
during all the afternoon there was not a moment in which we were not descending swiftly our thigh muscles set with the tautness of brakerods by an ever more stone-strewn road that curved in and out along the flanks of a barren range forming loops as perfect as the written m
19.14
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1,655.74
1,671.33
the wheedling of the ragged stewards to exchange his fortune for the cheap up to bogota straw hats and brass rings they carried for sale and got safely ashore with the entire handful of what in these wilds could not have been of any great practical value
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3,831.06
3,849.41
men women and children deposited their loads on the bare plaza before a weather tarnished old church and ambled away for more five immense heaps had been laid out in the form of a cross when a priest sallied forth to sprinkle them with holy water
18.35
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http://www.archive.org/download/vagabonding_down_andes_1711_librivox/vagabondingandes_09_franck_64kb.mp3
420.3
435.54
and some sheepskins which spread on the earth floor by night served the family its guinea-pigs and mangy curs as bed the women and children worked for nothing wages being reckoned by family rather than individually
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2,054.86
2,066.72
a few wear a gray wool skullcap most of them only their matted thick black hair cut short across the neck in dutch doll fashion
11.86
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http://www.archive.org/download/vagabonding_down_andes_1711_librivox/vagabondingandes_07_franck_64kb.mp3
504.59
524.39
when the icy mountain water had filled the stone basin cold as only a shaded spot at this altitude can be the uninured gringo could only grit his teeth clutch desperately at his sixty cent bar of imported english soap and plunge in and quickly out again
19.8
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112.49
131
all the town was agreed that no one could travel in these modern days along the remnants of the great military highway of the incas crawling along the crest of the cordillera oriental through regions for days utterly uninhabited
18.51
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3,175.38
3,186.73
who presented a document from the alcalde of bogota signed by none other than the nephew of that same don jorge for whom their home was famous
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http://www.archive.org/download/vagabonding_down_andes_1711_librivox/vagabondingandes_03_franck_64kb.mp3
1,691.12
1,704.71
a sahib said kim is always tied to his baggage it dominates every movement and is after all of scant value in proportion to the burden it imposes
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http://www.archive.org/download/vagabonding_down_andes_1711_librivox/vagabondingandes_05_franck_64kb.mp3
2,697.09
2,709.88
he took down a book and requested me to read some english aloud just to hear how it sounds casually somewhere during the interview i brought in a brief reference to lodging
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2,147.34
2,158.16
and gathered about a flat log raised a bit above the earth with a steaming calabash of the tasteless red-hot stew before each of us
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885.76
901.37
in the morning fulano's garrulous old mother made more formal arrangements for our housing she did not pretend to run a hotel though she had no hesitancy in charging hotel rates
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3,176.23
3,194.83
the double l has become a french j as in central america and panama so that a street is not a calle but a caje a key is a jave and the newcomer will have difficulty in recognizing the place mentioned as beja coja however
18.6
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2,923.81
2,937.98
an exceedingly young priest giving an excellent imitation of surprise at our appearance snapped a sort of wooden hand clapper and the entire class rose to their feet bowing profoundly
14.17
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http://www.archive.org/download/vagabonding_down_andes_1711_librivox/vagabondingandes_01_franck_64kb.mp3
2,903.44
2,917.68
and scores of half-frozen barefoot children and ragged adults dismally wandered the stony streets a policeman muffled to the ears assured us with what seemed a suggestion of pride that facatativa
14.24
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http://www.archive.org/download/vagabonding_down_andes_1711_librivox/vagabondingandes_10_franck_64kb.mp3
3,804.34
3,818.02
i regretted my ignorance of any panacea for that condition carrion is but a type of those closet geniuses who live toil and fade away unknown in the dim recesses of the andes
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1,671.33
1,683.55
as we pushed off the captain announced that we had wood enough to last until the following noon one would have fancied we had enough to last to the seventh circle and back here we could still march all night for the river
12.22
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2,605.89
2,621.73
at last she economized the sixty cents and was toiling away on the bank of the guadalajara dreaming of the joy of setting up the crucifix in her casita on the morrow when a poor lame man of buga
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1,370.61
1,383.09
my eyes tight closed i shouted at the youth above es que el agua caliente se acabo he droned it is that the hot water has finished itself
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842.96
859.38
if in the telling these have been overshadowed by the less laudable it is because the latter do so overshadow in point of fact obviously the experiences of four years even in latin america cannot be crowded within the covers of a volume or two
16.42
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4,035.5
4,052.58
shopkeepers and their clerks made hats in the intervals between customers and even while waiting on them indian and chola women wove them as they tramped along the roads with a bundle and perhaps a child on their backs as european peasant women knit
17.08
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3,500.63
3,514.91
a jaguar once wandered over the cordillera a man followed and to-day the route holds to the same course toiling like draft-animals gasping for breath in the rarefied air
14.28
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3,197.46
3,212.58
then i began inquiries the adjoining shopkeeper expressed unbounded surprise that there were persons so ignorant as not to know the government is so poor it cannot pay the librarian any more
15.12
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1,033.97
1,050.32
bushy clumps of the thorny sigse bristled aggressively the few planted fields were sparse and drear though near the town where the thirsty arenales had been transformed by irrigation into patches of green
16.35
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1,145.26
1,161.68
he admitted his wilhngness as a special favor to accompany us to la mesa eighteen miles away for the paltry sum of two hundred dollars we offered fifty and he left in well-feigned scorn
16.42
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152.72
163.22
the montesinos brothers sons of a former governor of the province of azuay were lawyers as well as professors in
10.5
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3,217.38
3,234.3
of the imbabura volcano the indians told us the road was pedroso it was the most exact information we ever had from men of their race anything more stony would be difficult to imagine
16.92
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3,658.13
3,672.26
the adobe lean-to into which i was led for the astonishing andean purpose of washing up before supper had not only a real bed mattress and all on springs of split bamboo
14.13
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238.08
253.37
as if they do not know their own minds unless they can be sold in our own land these broad-brimmed hats are worthless for the women of narifio wear only what we would consider men's styles
15.29
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1,695.7
1,715.6
the first necessity was a name for the animal her startling beauty against the background of the egyptian landscape made cleopatra obvious then came the problem of the furniture without which the wilds of northern peru no andean donkey will carry even a man's load
19.9
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378.75
398.11
to forestall him the rest of us took to arriving earlier until it grew customary to appear for the noonday vagabonding down the andes meal at about nine and to sit down to supper toward three eyeing each other ravenously and jealously watching the cook's every movement
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2,259.74
2,274.39
is at one one seven at no we suddenly reached the tree-line forests in striking contrast to the bare upland plateau of ecuador grew up about us as if by magic
14.65
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2,624.74
2,638.08
their task was merely to keep account of whatever passed the boundary for what purpose was not apparent unless it was to provide a sinecure for political henchmen
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394.63
409.33
in one field women were digging potatoes large as small muskmelons though nearby were other patches still red or purple with blossoms the average wage of the indian peons was five cents a day
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1,115.74
1,132.05
when we addressed him the priest answered us courteously enough then dropped the conversation in a manner to suggest that he did not care to pursue it further like his fellow-countrymen in general he seemed to have no hunger for knowledge no notion that he might learn from others
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3,775.41
3,787.81
in collecting the materials essential to the actual construction of this perfected child of his imagination but his hope was still youthful and he besought my advice
12.4
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721.79
733.43
we are all so poor here that when a rich man like your grace passes everyone tries to rob him asserted the older with unusual eloquence for his race
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764.36
782.82
which he must run under like circumstances in the highlands of mexico the newcomer's sympathy for the indian of quito gradually evaporates with the discovery that he is utterly devoid of ambition as completely indifferent to his own betterment as any four-footed animal
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1,439.13
1,455.53
but as the night was late and the streets cold they were doing him the favor of lodging him not in jail but in the pohce barracks looked at in that light and at that hour the affair assumed a new aspect
16.4
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778.24
793.69
what was worse their pronunciation from the rules books had to offer and mixing in with it a bit of a similar brand of french as if any foreign language answered more or less the purposes of the club
15.45
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3,401.84
3,414.32
on our reed divans quarreling pigs shaking the house as they jostled against it and the rain that fell heavily all night long dripping upon us here and there through the thatched roof
12.48
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1,961.63
1,977.88
yet in a way it was an ideal tramp a sun-flooded day in the exhilarating mountain air passed in absolute silence without even the sight of a fellow mortal except very rarely a lone shepherd so far away
16.25
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1,374.81
1,388.58
the highway now was a series of interwoven cross-country paths fording the smaller streams crossing the larger on little bamboo bridges with faded thatched roofs
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825.57
838.52
under our feet the road suddenly began a buck and wing shuffle and leaving it to its vagaries we scrambled and slid particularly hays in his smooth bottomed moccasins
12.95
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1,086.89
1,100.85
now and then a more friendly member of society wandered complacently into the room to peer over my shoulder or to handle with the innocence of a three-year old child such of my possessions as took his fancy
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2,607.34
2,624.74
ecuador was not even represented the two colombian customs officials diffident slowwitted but kindly pastusos asserted that no duties were collected on goods passing between the two countries unless they were of foreign origin
17.4
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1,002.99
1,014.38
so arid and monotonous the road lay deep in sand across a half-desert with no other adornment than the fences of cahnya of the cactus family
11.39
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764.46
775.01
that several evil-eyed fellows had halted awhile under the hacienda eaves during the height of the storm and slipped away somewhere into the night
10.55
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613.8
631.64
and so little like the uncouth illiterate i expected that he replied in faultless castilian to my remark about the absence of roads yes unfortunately south america fell to the spaniards whereas it should have been settled by anglo-saxons
17.84
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2,274.1
2,284.13
the haciendas of this region producing chiefly tobacco are owned by absentee landlords and managed by mayordomos the
10.03
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138.35
152.72
and it is only fair to the andes to mention that this extraordinary family had erected in a back patio a well-appointed lavatory stoutly padlocked against the indians of the hotfsehold
14.37
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1,291.34
1,301.58
being far from mortal ken in an uncharted crack of the earth it may be fancied i should have been eager to hurry on
10.24
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733.43
745.3
here all the people are robbers hace pocos dias it is only a few days since a traveler was killed down in the valley there last month
11.87
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1,397.54
1,415.07
then there isn't any more hot water he demanded not now seiior but there will be soon good how soon early to-morrow morning sefior but i want to bathe now ah you want to bathe repeated the youth with wide-open eyes
17.53
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3,801.74
3,814.38
we had been so lacking in foresight as to arrive on the day sacred to the virgen de la merced the celebration began early in the afternoon
12.64
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1,076.28
1,095.45
italians especially the wily neapolitan and turks as the ubiquitous syrians are called in all south america capture much of the trade a foreigner remains a foreigner in ecuador for the country has but weak powers of assimilation
19.17
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3,818.02
3,832.11
men in some cases who might have ranked high among modern inventors writers or artists had their lot been cast in happier climes than in this leaden environment of impracticability
14.09
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491.41
508.07
the mosquitos prick us every day yet we are well our strange notion that disease could be carried by a mere insect was as absurd to him as was to us his own habit of relying for health on the plaster saint in the vaulted fortress church
16.66
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2,818.55
2,833.76
it was nearing dusk when the world fell away before us into a great wooded quebrada its bottom unfathomable but with a trail in plain sight fighting its way up the opposite slope
15.21
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2,117.54
2,132.54
oh perhaps in a week answered the innocent damsels she went to mojarras with a load of corn it was as useless to try to get a meal without the loss of several hours
15
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797.09
810.17
in like manner the plaza de eglpto was transformed before our very eyes into the plaza de maza this weakness for honoring new heroes is characteristic of the whole country
13.08
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3,449
3,462.48
i lost myself a dozen times in a labyrinth of paths each leading to an isolated indian hovel one might have fancied the aboriginals had surrounded the sacred inca relics
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2,510.12
life was dismal at best in ayavaca the cold and clammy downpour continued unabated while i developed my exposed films in water supplied by an eavestrough the population blocked the doorway of my room
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3,430.73
3,449
the great was born and where the news of the landing on the coast of a strange tribe cut short his journey southward in his old age he who would visit ingapirca must have either a guide or a working mixture of spanish and quichua
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1,509.7
only a thousand pesos seiior i replied disdaining the temptation to multiply by ten muy bien senor he replied and making out an order to his cashier for that amount tucked the check away in a drawer
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2,880.16
an alsatian jesuit of an esthetical cast of countenance in striking contrast to his ecuadorian brothers led me fearlessly even into the belfry he was a plainspoken man for all his astuteness
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somehow now i had reached peru there came over me a languorous indifference to further advance the sun was low before i rose and turned my attention to the task of discovering my whereabouts
17
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now that the padre ordered she had no hesitancy in overlooking the absence of her husband the lodging cost us nothing which was exactly what it was worth
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1,622.44
1,642.4
and a place the traveler may possibly be able to make his way through is called a road like some andean newspapers it appears every now and then when a pair of blase world-weary mules drag it across town to the station and back usually only on train days
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yet proud of their rank in society lightly clad in rural dress and decidedly excited at the extraordinary event of a visit by a foreigner from far-off europe or america
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2,395.69
the valley of cajamarca enamelled with all the beauties of cultivation lay unrolled like a rich and variegated carpet of verdure
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288.17
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just across at the same height hung in plain sight the wavering trail we could only reach by undoing all the climbing of days past and doing it all over again in one single task
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to our governmental activities i am interested only in giving as faithful a picture as possible of my experiences with him there are good things praiseworthy things in south america
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1,601.81
1,615.47
now clambering constantly over steep headlands that broke into cliffs at the river's edge and stumbling down again through veritable quarries of loose stones my burden augmented
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2,802.62
2,818.55
red clififs like our v estern hiittes flashed their faces in the sunset and as far as the eye could reach in any direction was no sign that man had ever before entered this trackless wilderness
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1,946.26
1,965.51
mixed with an equal amount of cold water and place in jars to ferment once fermented it is ready to serve along the cauca valley we reached zarzal beyond a blistered red-hot plain soon after noon with nineteen miles already behind us
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2,572.87
2,592.56
long years ago more than two centuries when buga was nothing bt a row of thatched casitas on the bank of the babbling guadalajara de las piedras a very poor and pious woman used to come every day to wash clothes at the river brink
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the enormous majority of descriptions of south america resemble the original about as much as a portrait resembles the sitter after a professional photographer has finished with it
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it was thus we would always have arrived the day's work done early in the afternoon to wash eat and loaf awhile on the canvas cots in our cell bare room
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1,553.73
1,568.78
falling at once into their racial apathy drooped like wilted rags at the bow while one of them panted weakly a little more sefiores and we were gone
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2,876.37
2,889.6
where my mules would sink to their ears in mud and be left to perish where i myself would infallibly die of exposure if my caravan were overtaken by night out on the lofty
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until we meet again so unlimited is the faith in ingleses in these regions that he had no hesitancy in accepting from a stranger
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the mathematically regular town of san pablo in the floor flat river bottom of the rio mayo with rich meadows stretching east and west to the rocky mountain walls that boxed them in
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195.68
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at any price the tailor chose to inflict and returned to remain in hiding for the ensuing twenty-four hours until the articles were altered meanwhile i sallied forth from a ready-made establishment inconspicuous in a native shirt that came perilously near being born a pajama
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2,158.16
2,177.17
and a single bowl of mote mixed with bits of pork rind into which all shovelled at once we finished the meal in utter silence then the first peon wiping his horny hand across his mouth with a disgusting sucking sound mumbled
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in these languid corners of the world where life is reduced to its lowest terms food and lodging assume the first place of importance and the mind is never free from these primitive apprehensions
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2,224
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and jaen had been as approaching inca land far east of a line due southward as ayavaca had been to the west when early sunset fell in the bottom of the deep valley i had mounted several hundred feet above the level of the huancabamba
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3,226.52
3,245.46
that abounds in the ravines of the mountains to the eastward of the city nearly three centuries ago a missionary to the region found the indians grinding the bitter bark in their stone mortars and swallowing it as a specific against intermittent fevers as they do to this day
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1,863.45
1,874.15
cacique to-day it is an orphanage where a german nun was teaching a score of female orphans to earn a livelihood on american sewing-machines
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2,956.76
2,975.86
the theme was strictly religious in nature and most of the words of four or five syllables as often as the clapper sounded the boys changed to next and read with such fluency that only the tailend of a phrase here and there was intelligible
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2,535.72
2,555.03
the products of the soil were not high priced a guineapig next to children the most plentiful product of the town cost five cents a live chicken fifteen but it was always easier to pay the price than to find the chicken for sale
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2,645.84
2,663.37
when suddenly the wind rose and for a moment the mist thinned until we caught a hint of an immense chasm untold depths below then closed in again the excursion seemed to have been a failure we strolled on down the highway in the fog and loafed awhile on a bushy hillside
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2,432.3
2,451.99
except in one place where it spreads out hke the arms of a cross it is surely not more than a league in width but the suave spring view across it green with the deep green of the cactus and clumped now by the australian eucalyptus in contrast to the treeless days of the incas
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3,253.44
3,268.18
of an expert in penmanship on our left an enormous gash in the earth dreary desertbrown with no other vegetation than the cactus strangely enough called mejico in this region
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169.37
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we improvised seats and sat gazing out through the wooden reja far away on a vagabonding down the andes fuzzy hillside our road of the morning grew dim and faded out like an unfixed photograph and a night lighted only by stars quickly settled down
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2,289.06
2,307.64
to voluptuous tropical growths till the airy bamboo noblest of ferns bowed to us in graceful dignity from the crowded forest as we screamed past before noon we swung out of the gorge i had followed from palmira and halted at
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3,460.45
3,473.96
toward noon the now considerable trail split marking an important parting of the way for the branch to the left leads quickly down to bellavista on the bank
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2,171.82
and was given to drawing forth his worldly wealth in one wad to flourish it before the languorous cook and incidentally all the gaping town
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haughty rag displays nearer suggesting in a soft voice that perhaps as a great favor to him personally one of them would go with los senores and carry a very light little bundlet
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191.99
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a blood-thirsty half negro from esmeraldas who had been made governor of azuay it proved unsuccessful and the instigator had been forced to fly to the jungled oriente and live for months among the head-hunting jivaros indians
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