| ****, Spring 1986, PAGES 6-7 | |
| Copyright (c) 1986 Infocom, Inc. | |
| How I Spent My Summer Vacation | |
| By Brian Moriarty | |
| "You want to go _where_?" | |
| "Albuquerque." I hoped this would be easy. "Halfway between Los | |
| Alamos and White Sands. The National Atomic Museum is there, and I've | |
| been talking to this professor at UNM who --" | |
| "Great. Go." Marc Blank was never one to mince words. | |
| A month later I was easing a brand new T-Bird out of the Hertz lot at | |
| Albuquerque International Airport, ready to start researching my next | |
| interactive fiction title, _Trinity_. Those long, empty roads I'd | |
| seen from the window of my jet made me insist on something with cruise | |
| control. Air conditioning isn't optional in New Mexico, especially | |
| around mid-July. | |
| I drove north for two hours on 25, New Mexico's central artery. It | |
| winds between the blue mountains and brown arroyos, past quiet Indian | |
| reservations and the shopping malls of Santa Fe, to the foothills of | |
| the Jemez mountains. From there I began to climb west. | |
| How can I describe the landscape? The colorful mesas, rugged hills | |
| and forests are profoundly old and silent; there is nothing in New | |
| England to compare with them. I drove for miles without seeing | |
| another car, house, or any sign of human habitation. Just when I was | |
| certain I'd missed a turn and lost myself in Colorado, a McDonald's | |
| flashed by. | |
| "New in town?" The girl ringing up my postcards sounded like she | |
| really wanted to know. New Mexicans take small talk very seriously. | |
| "Just visiting," I replied, fighting to suppress my Boston accent. | |
| "Isn't there supposed to be a museum around here?" | |
| "There's a big one down at the Lab," she drawled, gesturing through | |
| the window of the drug store. "Just follow the signs." | |
| "The Lab" is Los Alamos National Laboratory, announced by a sign that | |
| stretches like a CinemaScope logo along the fortified entrance. One | |
| of the nation's leading centers of nuclear weapons research. The | |
| birthplace of the atomic bomb. | |
| The Bradbury Museum occupies a tiny corner in the acres of buildings, | |
| parking lots, and barbed wire fences that comprise the Laboratory. | |
| Its collection includes scale models of the very latest in nuclear | |
| warheads and guided missiles. You can watch on a computer as animated | |
| neutrons blast heavy isotopes to smithereens. The walls are adorned | |
| with spectacular color photographs of fireballs and mushroom clouds, | |
| each respectfully mounted and individually titled, like great works of | |
| art. | |
| I watched a teacher explain a neutron bomb exhibit to a group of | |
| schoolchildren. The exhibit consists of a diagram with two circles. | |
| One circle represents the blast radius of a conventional nuclear | |
| weapon; a shaded ring in the middle shows the zone of lethal | |
| radiation. The other circle shows the relative effects of a neutron | |
| bomb. The teacher did her best to point out that the neutron bomb's | |
| "blast" radius is smaller, but its "lethal" radius is proportionately | |
| much larger. The benefit of this innovation was not explained, but | |
| the kids listened politely. | |
| It isn't clear whether visitors are allowed to visit the adjoining | |
| Oppenheimer Library or not. The building stands behind a high fence | |
| with signs hinting an awful fate for unauthorized personnel. But the | |
| gate was open, and the Lab employees eating lunch under the trees were | |
| unarmed. So I stepped inside and roamed the stacks for hours. Nobody | |
| questioned my presence, and I drove away from Los Alamos without being | |
| shot. | |
| * * * | |
| Albuquerque's National Atomic Museum is a different story. It's right | |
| in the middle of Kirtland Air Force Base. You have to stop at a | |
| security shack and persuade a very young man with a crewcut to issue a | |
| visitor's permit. This valuable document gives you the right to | |
| proceed to the Museum by the most direct route possible, but with no | |
| stopping on the way. Cameras are forbidden outside the Museum | |
| grounds, and they can search you or your car if they decide they don't | |
| like you. I didn't bother locking the T-Bird as I went in. | |
| A third of the exhibit space is devoted to "Energy Horizons," | |
| featuring a solar TV set and other equally arresting wonders. The | |
| rest of the Museum looks a lot like its counterpart at Los Alamos, | |
| except that the missiles are even bigger and more numerous. One of | |
| the four H-bombs they accidentally dropped over Spain in the 1960s is | |
| on display, still wrapped in its silk parachute like a naughty baby. | |
| After the Museum closed I took Ferenc Szasz and his family out to | |
| dinner. Professor Szasz teaches history at the University of New | |
| Mexico, and had just published a book about the testing of the first | |
| atomic bomb. As we shook hands he grinned at me mischievously. "Ever | |
| had real Mexican food?" | |
| We drove to a place in Old Town, Albuquerque's historic district near | |
| the river's edge. I ordered an obscure chicken dish, and the waiter | |
| asked me if I wanted it served Mild, Medium, or Hot. Szasz grinned | |
| again. | |
| "Hot, please." | |
| The waiter looked up from his pad. "Have you eaten here before?" | |
| I cleared my throat, determined to know the worst. "Hot." | |
| It wasn't too bad. I had to eat very slowly, and convince myself that | |
| I was savoring the food instead of tolerating it. But I think the | |
| Professor was impressed. He'd ordered his Medium. | |
| * * * | |
| The alarm in my Albuquerque hotel room went off at 5:00 AM on Tuesday, | |
| the 16th of July. I wanted to go outside and learn what the desert | |
| air felt like at that time of day. The sun was still behind the | |
| mountains to the east; the sky was gray and lightly overcast, much as | |
| it had been on that same morning in 1945. At 5:29:45 I turned my eyes | |
| to the south, across the airport, and wondered what I might have seen | |
| at that precise instant 40 years earlier. | |
| Trinity Site is located in Jornada del Muerto, "the Journey of Death," | |
| a barren stretch of high desert that lies within the jurisdiction of | |
| White Sands Missile Range. The Site is normally open to the public | |
| only one day each year, the first Saturday in October. But in May I | |
| got a hot tip from a White Sands official, who told me they were | |
| planning to open the Site for five hours on July 16th to commemorate | |
| the 40th anniversary. | |
| The drive from Albuquerque to White Sands takes a couple of hours. At | |
| nine o'clock sharp the Army opened the Stallion Gate on the northern | |
| boundary of the Missile Range. I was near the beginning of the | |
| caravan of cars that began to snake down the paved road, into the | |
| desert. Twenty miles later, I caught my first glimpse of Ground Zero. | |
| There is no crater to speak of. The bomb was fired from the top of a | |
| hundred-foot tower, too high to dig much of a hole. Instead, there's | |
| a shallow depression, a quarter mile across, where the desert floor | |
| caved in under thousands of tons of pressure. Slap your palm hard on | |
| a piece of styrofoam. _Whack!_ That's what it looks like. | |
| The whole area is enclosed by a chain link fence. Yellow signs warn | |
| of radioactivity ten to fifteen times higher than normal. I left the | |
| T-Bird in the dusty parking area and joined a growing retinue of | |
| sightseers for the last, long walk across the sand. | |
| What monument could do justice to that fateful experiment? Events and | |
| people of far less significance are commemorated by mighty pyramids | |
| and heroic statues. Yet the simple stone obelisk at Ground Zero is | |
| effective in its understatement. When you look around at the vast, | |
| timeless desert that stretches away in every direction, it's easy to | |
| imagine the hopes of all generations, past and future, balanced on | |
| that spot. To visit Trinity is to stand at the fulcrum of history. | |
| The reaction of the crowd was mixed. Many felt ripped off; I think | |
| they expected a glowing, smoke-filled canyon, inhabited by mutated | |
| jackrabbits the size of buffalo. Others, myself among them, just | |
| stood looking at the monument, lost in thought. A few actually wept. | |
| All the major networks were running around with TV cameras, | |
| interviewing anyone who looked interesting. Children combed the | |
| ground for bits of "trinitite," a green, glassy substance composed of | |
| sand that was fused in the stellar heat of the blast. A man kept | |
| running a Geiger counter around the base of the obelisk, and turned up | |
| the volume so that everyone could hear the steady tick, tick, tick. | |
| The Army ran shuttle buses from Ground Zero to a small ranch house | |
| about two miles southeast. Once it was a private home, owned by the | |
| McDonald family, until it was appropriated (ahem) by the Manhattan | |
| Project for the final assembly of the bomb. The people who felt | |
| ripped off at Ground Zero got really annoyed at the ranch, as there is | |
| nothing to see except a cluster of small rooms, all alike, and all | |
| completely empty. | |
| * * * | |
| My last morning in New Mexico was spent at the Rio Grande Zoo. Very | |
| tasteful. The shady walkways almost make you forget the heat of the | |
| surrounding city. | |
| I wandered slowly past the monkey houses and prairie dogs, lingering | |
| at the seal pool and the yak pen, until I came at last to a big cage | |
| filled with cacti. A gray bird was perched inside, sleek and | |
| fast-looking, with sharp eyes and a long tail splashed with color. | |
| "I'm gonna make you a star," I whispered. | |
| The roadrunner blinked at me, and pretended not to understand. | |
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